Cappella Palatina Mosaics
Cappella Palatina interior — the full synthesis
Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
The Cappella Palatina (Palatine Chapel) in the Palazzo dei Normanni in Palermo is the private chapel of the Norman kings of Sicily and one of the most extraordinary cultural syntheses in the history of Christian art: a space that combines Byzantine mosaic (the walls and vaults, depicting Christ Pantocrator in the dome, scenes from the Acts of the Apostles in the nave, and scenes from the lives of Peter and Paul in the aisles), Arab muqarnas ceiling (a stalactite wooden ceiling in the Islamic geometric style, covering the nave), and Norman-Romanesque architecture (the overall structure and the marble floor). It was commissioned by King Roger II (r.1130-1154), who appears in the apse mosaic receiving the crown of Sicily directly from Christ — a piece of political theology that places his kingship on the same level as Byzantine imperial theology.
Roger II built the chapel around 1132-1140 and employed Byzantine craftsmen for the mosaics, Arab craftsmen for the wooden muqarnas ceiling, and Norman craftsmen for the architectural structure. The result is a space that has no parallel in Europe: the gold Byzantine mosaics on the walls, the Arabic geometric ceiling above, and the marble floor below create a total sensory environment that is simultaneously Christian, Byzantine, Islamic, and Norman. The Christ Pantocrator in the dome (the highest and most sacred point in the chapel) is in the purest Byzantine style; below, the Biblical narrative cycles are in a slightly softer, more narrative Byzantine manner; at the fringes of the programme, Arabic inscriptions and arabesques appear.
Stand at the entrance of the nave and look upward at the wooden muqarnas ceiling — its carved geometric stalactites and painted scenes (many damaged) demonstrate the Arabic craftsmen's skill. Then look around at the gold mosaic walls: the formal arrangement of the Byzantine programme and the physical richness of the gold ground create an interior that seems to glow even in low light.
The Christ Pantocrator in the central dome is visible from most positions in the nave. The apse mosaic of Roger II receiving his crown from Christ is to the right of the altar (apse to the right); the inscription identifies Roger as 'Rogerios Rex'.
When standing before this work, look carefully: Cappella Palatina interior — the full synthesis. Give it time — what seems decorative often carries the central meaning.
When standing before this work, look carefully: Christ Pantocrator in the dome. Give it time — what seems decorative often carries the central meaning.
When standing before this work, look carefully: The Arab muqarnas wooden ceiling. Give it time — what seems decorative often carries the central meaning.
When standing before this work, look carefully: Roger II receiving his crown from Christ. Give it time — what seems decorative often carries the central meaning.
Palazzo dei Normanni, Piazza del Parlamento, Palermo. The Cappella Palatina is on the ground floor of the palace; separately ticketed (timed entry).
The palace also houses the Sicilian Regional Assembly. Advance booking recommended.